![]() There is no need to labor the commonsense precautions. ![]() Police will tell you that the best thieves today can break into a current model, pull out the radio and cassette player and be gone within two minutes. The older the car, the easier it is to steal. They steal to order for gangs that alter paintwork and identification numbers, truck the cars interstate and re-register them. People steal cars for joy-rides, emergency transport home, parts, V8 engines, sound systems and alloy wheels. The insurance company had to pay out a repair bill of almost $60,000. The first Honda NSX super car to be pinched anywhere in the world, and valued at $160,000, was taken for a joy-ride in Sydney a few months ago, in spite of a most complex alarm system. It is worth saying for a start that almost any car can be broken into if it comes to the point. The NSW motoring club, the NRMA, also gives very high marks to a hard-steel backing to the ignition switch, called the Squire Backshield. But cheap, visible mechanical devices like the Hettel 100 handbrake lock, the well-known Club steering wheel bar, and the similar but electronic Kraco Nightstick are good value. The best electronic systems can run to over $2000 when all accessories are included, and are certainly the most difficult for the burglar to disable, as well as attracting the cheapest insurance premiums. T7c is to your dash clocks, so wont immobilise anythign cutting into that ignition coil is on plug D pin 23, or if you want to be a bit more crafty leave that alone and instead cut into the black wire to the spark module in the scuttle.The claims and counter-claims run thick and fast, but the mostcost-efficient way of preventing a car being stolen costs only a little more than $100. Would need to look at what 7, 8, 9 and 11 are actually for in the alarm system to know what you need to run them to cranking live I expect, if its just cranking sense rather than immobilised circuit C/18 usually has a spade connected to starter liveġ0. if this is just ignition sense rather than immobilised circuit G spade 2 or 5 saves you a tapĩ. would guess they mean X live which goes dead cranking as they specifically mention cranking and ignition live for 7? if so G spade 1 or 3Ĩ. C/1 is what you want, C/3 is just perm live. yes, but probably neater to tap into the dash wiring along with the rest of your alarm wiring, go to the grey on handbrake lightĥ. (although Im unsure where to find this T7c connection)ġ. T7c - black plug, short side: 7 - blk - ignition switch pin 15 (ignition live) -> U1/4 I also need to immobilise a starting circuit, so was thinking of the ignition coil: Accessory (+ ve) connected to : Ignition live rear of fusebox.Battery (+ ve) connected to: K – White, 3 - permanent live feed OR P - red - battery +.Starter (+ ve) connected to: no idea ?.Ignition & cranking (+ ve) connected to: no idea ?.Ignition (+ ve) connected to: T7c - black plug, short side: 7 - blk - ignition switch pin 15 (ignition live) -> U1/4.Battery (- ve) connected to: Ring terminal under dash A pillar, drivers side.Foot brake (+ ve) connected to: C – Yellow, 1 - red/blk- brake light switch OR C – Yellow, 3 - red/yel- brake light switch.Engine on (charging battery) (+ ve) connected to: C – Yellow, 2 - blu - alternator pin D+.Indicators right (- ve) connected to: A – Blue, 7 - blk/grn- hazard switch pin R & indicator switch pin R.Indicators left (+ ve) connected to: A – Blue, 20- blk/wht- hazard switch pin L & indicator switch pin L. ![]() ![]() Hand brake switch (- ve) connected to: E – Black, 13- gry or brn/yel - handbrake warning switch.The car is a 1988 mk2 golf 1.6 CL, with hazard switch on the dash - so CE1 i believe. Im in the process of wiring a new alarm in my golf, and need some confirmation on the wiring in the golf. ![]()
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